Challenge #4: Surfing in the Indian Ocean
Surfing? Standing in a board of 6′ 2″ length letting the surfs takes me and the board as fast as possible while keeping control to direct the board where to go? It sounds very tempting, I don’t know how I can do that but what the hell we only live once!
The board at this stage is laying in the sand. Surfing is so easy!
1. Peddle, peddle, peddle, peddle…while laying on top of the board.
2. Up: stand, feet shoulders apart, flex knees and in the middle of the boar, arms cross front of my buddy directed to the front of the board: almost like Karati movement, got a 2 lessons in one: surfing and Karati.
Mastered it in no time. I’m so quick at learning, I’m impressed ☺
Board in the water! Now we talk! How many tries do you think I will have to make until I can stand and keep standing on the board for few seconds at least?
Peddle, peddle peddle… peddle just on hand, the wave is behind me, ohh my god I’m so excited. Standing up is so easy, I did it it shouldn’t be big deal.
Yep you wish ☺
1st try, 2nd, 3rd getting there, getting there, hold on hold on, kneeling in 1 leg, bring the second one it’s easy. Boom, fall no not that easy 4 and 5 try but still falling.
6 try: peddle! peddle, peddle, peddle: Come one you can do it, it’s not 96KM, it’s not a 11 day sailing where no land or a being to be seen. Nothing will happen worst I will fall in the water.
UP! One leg up, second leg up, still didn’t fall, the surf is fast, I’m going fast, wahoooooo I did it I did it, 5 seconds 10 seconds boom down again. But I did it I did it.
Another try and another and another. Few I don’t make it some I do, from standing just 5 or 10 seconds to 20. Every try was done with more hope, more enthusiasm, more joy and laughs.
Every time I stand up I could feel every nano nerve of my body living, moving, beating, enjoying every second I successfully stood on the board or even just trying.
Walking for days, hiking high mountains or climbing steep hills, swimming, diving, skiing, rafting, learning to ride a motorcycle or learning to get back to a kayak once it flips and toss me out of it…… life is about trying, about experiencing new things, about laugh, about LIVING IT TO THE FULLEST.
I bite into life every moment to savor it and the more I bite, the hungrier I get.